How To Repair Crack In Plaster Wall
You just gotta dear plaster. That rock-hard substance, which was applied to the walls and ceilings of nearly every house in this land until the 1950s, gives u.s. surfaces that are seamless, mold resistant, fire resistant, and noise deadening. Merely what to do when plaster cracks, buckles, and pops loose? It's a perplexing question for many of our readers, including Tim Thorp, whose house in Providence, Rhode Isle, is filled with badly blemished plaster.
"How do I patch 100 years of gouges, cracks, and screw holes so the walls look flat and clean when painted?" he asks us in an e-mail. Hither, Tom Silva shows how to repair plaster walls to make them await equally good as new.
Plaster Crack Repair: An Overview
The key to any fix is to reunite the plaster with the strips of forest lath underneath. Otherwise the cracks come back, no affair how many times you patch over them. That's why This Old House general contractor Tom Silva normally reattaches lath with screws and metallic washers before attempting a repair.
Recently, though, he tried Large Wally's Plaster Magic, a homeowner-friendly adhesive that uses glue instead of screws. While it costs more than the screw-and-washer method—a six-tube kit runs $120, versus $20 for 120 metallic washers—the final finishing is easier and looks better because there aren't any washers to cover. Plus, a glued bail lasts longer than a screwed connection.
How to Repair Plaster Walls
1. Drill Into the Plaster
- Using a 3/16-inch masonry bit, drill a hole in the plaster about 2 inches from the crack. When you hit lath, stop—the fleck won't go through woods—pull out the bit, and drill another pigsty about iii inches from the start and near 2 inches from the crevice. Attempt to striking a strip of lath with every hole you lot drill. If you miss, the scrap will sink in right to the chuck.
- Mark such holes with a pencil as a reminder not to inject them with primer or adhesive in the next steps; try drilling again about half an inch up or down.
- Continue until in that location is a series of holes nearly 4 inches apart on both sides of the crack. Vacuum the plaster crumbs out of all the holes.
ii. Prime number and seal
- Put on safety goggles and disposable gloves, then spray-pump a stream of the acrylic conditioner into each of the holes (just non into any you've marked). One or two squeezes should exist plenty.
- Spray the edges of the crack, too, and clean up drips with a wet sponge. Look 10 minutes for the milk-thin conditioner to soak into the plaster and wood.
3. Inject the adhesive
- Place the adhesive tube's nozzle in ane of the primed holes. Gently squeeze the caulking-gun trigger until the flossy glue fills the hole and a lilliputian backs out effectually the nozzle.
- Do the same for all unmarked holes. Scrape off the excess and wipe the wall make clean with a wet sponge.
4. Clench the wall
- Sideslip a 2-inch plastic washer over a 1 5/viii-inch drywall screw, and drive information technology into the lath through 1 of the agglutinative-filled holes. The screw pulls the lath confronting the plaster's back side while the washer gives the screwhead a wide clamping surface.
- Plant washers about viii to 12 inches apart on both sides of the crack.
5. Wipe and expect
- Wipe abroad any excess agglutinative with a wet sponge.
- Wait a day or two for it to cure, and so back out the screws and scrape off the washers. (Salvage them for another plaster-repair project.) Also, scrape off any dried adhesive poking out of the holes.
six. Fill the crevice
- Mix up a small batch of setting-type joint compound and use it to fill up the crack and all the holes. Smooth the moisture compound with a trowel; then, as it begins to harden, wet it and smooth it again.
- Later on the chemical compound sets, sand the area lightly, then prime and paint.
Tools
Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/walls/21016734/how-to-fix-damaged-plaster
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